In memory of the man who spread edible happiness

For the uninitiated, Michele Ferrero was a real-life Willy Wonka and innovator of marvellous confections and owner of the chocolate manufacturer Ferrero SpA. He was the man behind the magical Nutella Hazelnut spread, the mouth-freshening Tic-Tacs, the dense and rich Ferrero Rocher chocolates and every child’s all-time favourite, the Kinder Joy eggs. He died this week and his passing feels like an immensely personal loss, for he touched my life and my culinary universe in more ways than one.

At almost all given points in time, I am likely to have the trademark little plastic tin of Tic-Tacs in my bag. I like to call these mouth freshening pills, ‘mintlets’ with just the right amount of sweetness and zing. Among the staples in my larder, there is always that much-loved glass bottle of Nutella that has offered succour when days were cold and dank, an element of joy when meals were bland and cheat moments during diet breakfasts comprising bottomless bowls of Dickensian gruel. Whenever I have been at a loss for presents, the Ferrero Rocher pralines have been my go-to last-minute saviours, immediately adding a suitable sense of gravity to any occasion.

Mr Ferrero pretty much thought of it all, offering smart plastic cases that were pretty enough in their own right and available in different sizes for the varying relationships between the gifter and the giftee.

If there is one thing that Mr Ferrero made that I missed trying, that would be the Kinderjoy egg. Always a stickler for collecting Easter eggs, this little egg-shaped chocolate surprise entered the supermarket and my life in a post-lib India long after I had left my childhood long behind. Although the idea of having my own Kinder egg appealed to me, the idea of being in queue with wee babies, cajoling their parents to buy them yet another one, was a tad embarrassing. However, this week in tribute to this man, I shall sacrifice my adult composure and return to the innocent joy of discovering a toy inside a chocolate egg. 

And Nutella... Well... I could sing paeons to this creamy chocolate-hazelnut spread that has spawned hundreds of pretenders but never a worthy equal.

The journey from a Napoleonic war-time substitute created from the hazelnuts of Piedmont to a gianduja (an Italian chocolate and hazelnut sweet) inspired by World War II cocoa shortages to the modern-day phenomenon which was launched in its current Nutella avatar as late as 1964 and has since spread across the world, is remarkable.

The product has spawned reams of numbers and statistics including the near unbelievable one which states that a bottle of Nutella is sold somewhere in the world every 2.5 seconds! A World Nutella Day is celebrated every February 5. Nutella recipe festivals, competitions and even a postage stamp commemorating this jar of joy.

It is Mr Ferrero’s masterful blend of chocolate, hazelnut and palm oil that has emerged as a winner, turning his father’s small pastry shop into a veritable chocolate empire and one of the most successful businesses in the world,

It also skyrocketed its owner into the list of the world’s richest men. Despite the success, the company has remained family-owned, Mr Ferrero remained reclusive and closely guarded his secret recipe through his life.

One could almost expect an army of Oompa Loompas to be manning the sprawling factories in Alba.

While Michele Ferrero might be no more, he leaves behind a marvellous legacy and continues to spread the happiness across the world.

This was published in The New Indian Express Bangalore on 21 February, 2015

Trucking into food heaven

I imagined my first food truck experience to be straight out of the freewheeling Jon Favreau’s 2014 film Chef, taking me to melty cheesy barbecued heaven and even though it wasn’t by a beachside promenade in San Francisco and on a leafy bylane of Indiranagar, Bengaluru instead, I was not complaining.

Salivating at the thought of a freshly grilled and juicy chicken steak burger and onion rings from the Spitfire BBQ truck, I made my way to 6th Main, Indiranagar.

The last thing I expected in this gastronomic idyll was an ugly run-in with the local authorities and the very serious problem that this burgeoning business of food trucks in the city is facing, something that could shut down this novel enterprise altogether.

I entered a scene of chaos. There were hungry diners in queue, waiting for their food, three cops in their police van, making rude gestures to shut down operations and the last wonderful smells of freshly grilled meat dying out as the grill was extinguished and the back doors of the truck closed, signalling the end of the evening.

As I followed the truck away from the main road into a quiet alley by a park, I met the two harried partners of Spitfire BBQ, Siddhant Sawkar and Pratika Binani and tried to understand what the problem was. The lack of any existing laws or licences around food trucks in India makes them operate in a grey area where they are neither breaking any laws nor conforming to them. More than anything else, it makes these upcoming young startups ripe for exploitation by every neighbourhood police authority, residents’ association or even other fixed commercial establishments. “Anyone can slam a case for anything ranging from ‘public nuisance’ to disruption of peace. In fact someone even complained to the cops saying that we were blocking his view...and the view from his house was of a bar across the street!” says Siddhant.

While Spitfire BBQ’s three-day stint at Indiranagar was part of their Save the Food Trucks drive, there is clearly a problem here and laws need to be put in place to protect as well as nurture these small startups which could portend exciting things for street food.

Spitfire BBQ comprises a young and enterprising duo who started their business from scratch, outfitting the truck themselves and launching their food dream of classic American-style fast food on wheels. Siddhant is the chef among the two who believes that quality produce goes a long way and in keeping with this idea, every aspect of their menu is handcrafted from scratch. Not only does he make the bread for the burgers himself, each burger is stuffed with a freshly cooked chicken steak hot off the grill. Everything is carefully sourced from local farms and Siddhant maintains high quality controls and consistency across his menu which keeps changing depending on the availability of ingredients. At one point, he was curing his own meats and even making his own cheese. However that was very hard to sustain as a business model especially since they plan to scale up and are looking at franchisee options.

Comparisons with Jon Favreau’s food truck in the film are inevitable and it is interesting that a whole two weeks after watching the film, Spitfire BBQ actually did their versions of the famous Cubanos or Cuban sandwiches, thus “giving the film free publicity,” says Siddhant.

Their menu ranges from sliders to burgers, onion rings to hot dogs with new stuff constantly being added to the list. Evrything carries Siddhant’s trademark ‘dude food’ style as well as a bit of Southern Italian flavours. So between driving around the city, dealing with the cops and irate neighbours, engaging with their customers (four groups came up to them while I was chatting with them) and cooking, the Spitfire BBQ guys have much on their plate and plans to increase their tribe as well. With competitive pricing (Rs 90 - Rs 300), this food truck encourages you to come out in support, eat their food and get some sauce on your chin!

This piece appeared in The New Indian Express Bangalore on 14 February, 2015

Around India in 29 Plates Part IV

Culinary Treasures of the Northeast

While travel and food are intrinsically linked, sometimes the latter becomes a singular aspect of a culture and a reflection of its way of life.Visiting local joints, sharing home-cooked meals with strangers and eating your way around a place is almost the cryptic route to the heart of a land and its people. This week, we visit the beautiful Northeast through its food. The land of the seven sisters has perhaps the most eclectic and diverse cuisine, combining local produce and flavours with an entirely home-grown eating culture that is as exciting as it is unexplored. And no, momos are not a part of their daily diet! If there was a food spectrum with much flogged tandoori chicken at one end, the Meghalayan Jadoh would be on the other with a far richer flavour palette. This cuisine (which varies across each states with some commonalities arising due to a similar climactic pattern and local produce) is only now beginning to pop up in the urban Indian centres reappropriated as nouvelle cuisine for those who like to experiment. However, the best meals would be eaten at eateries by the side of hill roads or bustling markets in the Northeast, or if you can manage it, someone’s house with some a rather potent local alcoholic brew to wash it all down. It is also extremely hard to choose one dish from each state as different tribes and communities within the same state have dramatically different eating habits. The cuisine is wonderful for many reasons with spices, herbs and methods of cooking that predate modern appliances and are healthy, less oily and masala based and protein heavy.

Masor Tenga (Assam)

With an abundance of rivers, lakes and ponds, this gateway state of the northeast is rich in freshwater fish and this along with rice, forms the chief source of sustenance. The Masor Tenga with fleshy and tender pieces of rohu fish cooked in a light and sour gravy is a delight. Unlike the neighbouring rich Bengali fish curries, the tenga is a light and fragrant staple eaten in nearly every household.
 
Jadoh (Meghalaya)

Jadoh stalls are an extension of the community eating in Meghalaya. Jadoh is essentially a rice and meat stall. However, before you start thinking that this just your ordinary pulav, the unique Jadoh combines the joha rice of the region, fatty pork pieces (other meats can also be also used) and the condiments of fermented soya paste as well as companion dish of Doh Neiong (Pork cooked in a sesame paste).

Smoked pork with Akhuni (Nagaland)

While pork is indeed quite a staple around these parts, the Naga preparations of this meat burst with intense flavours derived from local herbs, dried and fermented leaves, shoots and beans and the famous Naga Morich, a close cousin to the bhut jalokia. This particular dish combines pieces of fire-smoked pork with Akhuni or fermented soy beans, lending it a lovely dark smoky flavour.

Gudok (Tripura)

Tripura’s tribal communities greatly influence the food in these parts. The dish was originally cooked inside bamboo stems, lending it a wonderful flavour. Essentially a black-eyed bean and fish preparation, this dish gets its unique tart fishy aroma from Berma, a fermented fish, which works a bit like the Thai fish sauce.

Pasa (Arunachal Pradesh)

While this dish is somewhat of an acquired flavour as it is a raw fresh fish soup, it is a tribal delicacy. In my mind it is a combination of the flavours of sushi and the French tartare. With a host of aromatics and raw fish paste, this dish was believed to have been a wartime inception when cooked food would have been a giveaway for the tribal soldiers.

Iromba (Manipur)

Combining Ngari or fermented fish with mashed boiled vegetables and a pungent chilli paste, this dish has numerous variations depending on the herbs, leaves and veggies used. The Manipuris eat this as a side dish, an entree with boiled rice and even as chutney!

Sawchair (Mizoram)

This traditional dish from the state of the rolling hills is a rice dish cooked with chicken, duck or pork and veggies. This wholesome all-in-one meal in a bowl is a hearty meal perfect after a hard day’s work


This was published in The New Indian Express Bangalore on 26 February, 2015

Around India in 29 Plates Part III

Food as a Map Through Which we Learn 

 This week, we continue our culinary journey across the country continuing from where we left off, somewhere in between the syncretic fulcrum of food and identity in Kashmir and the simple, wholesome and rustic fare of Haryana and Himachal. This week, as we move from the mountains to the northern Gangetic plains which is the ancient seat of power, the heartland of India and the proverbial rice bowl of the country, the task at hand for this humble chronicler becomes harder as this belt is a vast swathe of influences — from the ancient to the medieval to the modern era in terms of religions, culture and, by extension, the cuisine. Food is the cumulative result of a civilisation’s transitions through history and this week’s picks aim to be a reflection of the same.

Mutton Kebabs (Uttar Pradesh)
It is hard to pick one dish in a state that is synonymous with food. From a royal repast to street food delicacies, from the best of Awadhi cuisine to the princely Nawabi variations of the same, from chaats to an array of desserts, Uttar Pradesh is a gourmand’s dream with every part of the state offering a peek into a way of life and eating and Lucknow is the crown jewel.
While I have chosen mutton kebabs as a representative dish, this is more a sub-genre which covers everything from the esoteric and fragrant kakori kebab, the tender and spiced boti kebabs, the melt-in-the-mouth galawat or galauti kebabs to the robust shami and pasanda discs and the delicately spiced seekh cylinders. There is very little chicken in the kebab lexicon of this region. These kebabs are part of the elaborate set of starters in a traditional Dastarkhwan (a ceremonial meal) conceptualised by gifted khansamas (chefs) as well as the common man’s victuals from the smoky street tandoors paired with a variety of unleavened breads. Uttar Pradesh’s kebabs are ubiquitous as well legendary. Thus there is the myth of the toothless kebab-loving nawab in whose kitchen the famed kakori, or the softest kebab in the world, was born. Then there was the tale of the one-armed genius kababchi called Tundey Miyan who tenderised his meat with the stump of his amputated arm to create perfectly consistent kebabs, earning him legions of fans and a reputation that lasted generations. These stories are part of the food lore of a state whose cuisine has to be experienced to be believed.

Bal Mithai (Uttarakhand) 
The beautiful mountain kingdom of Uttarakhand is washed by the River Ganga, resplendent in natural beauty with its misty mountains, folk traditions, ancient temples and sprawling national parks. The fairy tale setting of the region is in sync with this iconic sweet of the region which is rich, sweet and milky and covered in sugary balls that pop in your mouth. One can imagine this to be the treasured candy out of an enchanted edible house that tempts all with its appearance and aromas. Especially popular in Almora, some version of the Bal Mithai is found in most towns of the state. Cooked with khoya, cane sugar and covered with sugar coated poppy seeds (posto), this home-grown fudge which was invented by an enterprising Almora halwai, is a hit among kids and adults alike. With no cocoa content, it is interesting that this sweet is locally known as ‘chocolate’ and is a delicious treat on winter days that will warm you right till the cockles.    

Laal Maas (Rajasthan)
This list does not escape the bias of the listmaker and in this case, my own love for meat. Despite being an avowed carnivore, this state’s vegetarian food is a treasure trove with offerings that smack of invention and are derived from the local produce. With culinary influences ranging from the all-vegetarian Marwari community to the robust meat-centric Rajput cuisine, Rajasthani food is an amalgam of its land, its weather conditions and its people. Thus one can pick from an assortment of savouries like mirch ka pakora (batter-fried chilli peppers) and pyaaz kachori (onion fritters) and preparations like the ker sangri sabzi (a piquant desert preparation of dried beans and tart berries). But for me, Rajasthani food shall always be the eye-popping and aromatic Laal Maas, a fiery red mutton curry cooked in a dried red chilli paste. Redolent of garlic, chillis, yogurt and more chillis, the base meat can be goat, deer or any other game meat and while sure to raise your temperature by a couple of notches, this food of the Rajput warriors will transform food into a sensory experience intended to fire your blood with new life and vigour.

Litti Choka (Bihar)
This traditional celebratory food, this spiced wheat and powdered lentil ball is infused with fragrant ghee and roasted over coals or a chulha (traditional oven fired by cow dung cakes), or even deep fried. This cross between bread and savoury fritter is accompanied with chokha, a delicious flame-roasted eggplant and tomato preparation. Litti-chokha is a wholesome meal in itself to be had on winter evenings by a raging fire and while time-consuming to make, is equally comfortable in both urban and rural settings.   

This was published in The New Indian Express Bangalore on 19 February, 2015

Bound In Laughter, Love and Arrack

The Amazing Racist opens on a hot tropical day in Colombo, Sri Lanka. There is a tropical storm brewing in the distant horizon as well as one far more deadly, simmering in the office of Thilak Rupasinghe, top litigation lawyer and former president’s counsel, a protective and dominating father and a man with a diminutive stature but a persona so towering that he could literally frighten away cancer. In the momentary calm before the storm, Eddie Trusted, a rather bewildered English schoolteacher, waits in the verandah burping curry and watching the minutes vanish in the buildup to one of the most significant moments in his life — as he is about to ask this much feared patriarch for the hand of Menaka Rupasinghe, his daughter — a mere seven weeks after he has landed in the country.
Plagued by the effects of spice on his digestive tract, the weather on his constitution and the chaotic traffic on his stress-prone disposition, Eddie is an outsider in more ways than one. And yet, unable to resist the charms of the veritable Sri Lankan goddess Menaka, he finds himself falling so deeply for her that he is ready to marry her and make this little politically fraught island country his own. But first of all, he has to pass the many tests laid out for him by his future father-in-law with a fairly anti-colonialist bent of mind and a distaste for the white man and his imaginary 21st-century burdens.
Chhimi Tenduf-La’s The Amazing Racist (Hachette India) is a rollercoaster ride through the life and times of two men, divided by the colour of their skin, age, cultural traditions and opinions, and brought together by their unusual circumstances, a whole lot of whiskey and the girls in their lives. Their interactions are less meetings and more like mini battles fraught with manic car rides, liver-melting arracks, sparks and tension, racist jokes and the ghost of deportation lurking around the corner. Eddie Trusted and Thilak Rupasinghe are polarised ends of a cultural spectrum forced together by the headstrong and free-spirited Menaka.
The author’s skill lies in his telling of this simple and straightforward tale with generous shots of humour, wit and sensitivity. From laugh-out-loud moments to politically incorrect jokes, from the black humour of human foibles to a witty look at the innards of the modern family mechanism, from the curious frailty of traditional bonds to the poignancy of unlikely and resilient bonds, the book chews its way through human relationships in all its myriad hues.
Chhimi Tenduf-La, who has mined some of his personal experiences in order to bring this world to life, is a fresh and promising new voice on the literary landscape. With a British mother, a Tibetan father and a  Sri Lankan wife, the author certainly knows a thing or two about cultural cross-connections. Also, having spent enough time in Colombo, he had the unique vantage point to write this story with its motley cast of characters dealing with this strangely functional and dysfunctional city.
Set against the backdrop of an ancient-modern country ravaged by war and yet somehow getting on with all the motions of ordinary life, The Amazing Racist teeters away from deeper political issues presenting a light-hearted fictional universe with just the occasional real-life reference slipping through. Unlike hardened semi-fictional narratives of war and terror, this book soars free of the political baggage of its nation and tells a funny, accessible and charming story about a family and its oddball denizens. And the best part is that it doesn’t take itself terribly seriously as it sets out to expound exactly why every character finds himself or herself a place they can call home in Sri Lanka or the “best country in the world”. 

This was published in The New Indian Express Bangalore on 10 February, 2015