Even before the stroke of the midnight hour when India awoke to life and freedom, her political leaders had already found their feet on the world stage as far as fashion was concerned. Certain political figures have stuck in our minds for the distinctive head-turning and individualistic styles as much as their ideologies or their theories on nationhood. Their looks have been emblazoned in the public imagination and spawned many copycats over time and yet, the panache, grace and sheer magnificence of these original style gurus remain unmatched. Thus Jackie Kennedy’s bouffant and oversized sunglasses, Nelson Mandela’s silk hand-painted ‘Madiba’ shirts, Margaret Thatcher’s pearls and power suits, Benazir Bhutto’s pop lipstick and headscarf, Indira Gandhi’s grey streak and more recently Priyanka Gandhi’s earthy and elegant cotton saris, Vasundhra Raje’s chiffons are but a few of the unforgettable signature style statements that have carved their place in the annals of fashion.
The Mahatma’s homespun Khadi went on to take Indian ramps by the storm in the 21st century and even ended up being the chosen garb for the powerful Jedi knights in the Star Wars films! As a symbol of Swadeshi nationalism, khadi kurtas and saris became the de facto politician’s uniform, making a strong statement and establishing the socialist agenda of dynastic heads.
Jawaharlal Nehru was the political fashion icon of our times and his Nehru Jacket has revolutionised the world of Indo-western men’s fashion. His bandhgala, which evolved from the Mughal-style achkan, a fitted jacket with full sleeves and a single row of buttons down the chest with a short collar around the neck gave the jacket its name—the bandhgala. Add to this, the rose tucked into a buttonhole, the fitted churidar and the distinguished topi—it is little wonder that Nehru made it to Time magazine’s list of the top ten political fashion statements of all time.
In what is an ironic twist, Nehru’s true fashion progenitor is not his sneaker-wearing great grandson Rahul, but our newest Prime Minister, Narendra Modi who is a proud ambassador of India’s acche din as well as her fashion to a global audience. Resplendent in his bright yellow, orange and even pale pink half-sleeved kurtas and matching bandi (sleeveless bandhgala jackets) sets, stretched taut over his ‘56-inch chest,’ Modi is a man who understands the importance of a well-cut garment. The NaMo kurta is a reflection of his cult of the individual that has completely changed the dynamics of Indian politics as well as politicians on a world stage.
From the early crisp saffron kurtas stitched at the posh Gujarat-based Jade Blue boutique to an elaborate wardrobe planned by fashion designer Troy Costa, Modi’s fashion spends and scope might have changed but his sartorial taste has remained ascendant. The pastel kurtas, paisley shawls, wine-coloured bandhgalas, rimless glasses, flamboyant pagdis, ethnic headgear and even an occasional cowboy hat is carried off by this often controversial and eyeball-grabbing figure with great aplomb.
Although Nehru and Modi might be entirely divided on political, ideological and party lines, this ubiquitous Indian jacket brings them together. Indeed, with Modi’s appointment, the bandhgala is back on the world political stage with a bang. And its has got a new lease of life in its funky 21st-century NaMo avatar.
(this was published in the New Indian Express Bangalore on 3 November 2014)
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